All posts by ronox

LED Kit arrived

Ill have to confirm it by checking the component specs, listing description and then actually running it at 24v to see if it can directly run off 24v instead of the usual 12v, make sure the driver isnt overheating even though its in-spec.

If it works fine, i have a few challenges ahead of me; first, the fragile and tiny LED strip needs to be properly mounted in the reflector shield/case for the light tubes. In all likelyhood i can probably pot it and either end and run a little wire through to keep it fixed, plus glue the strip to the back of the reflector with thermal paste.

Continue reading LED Kit arrived

Monitor disassembly photos

Since im being a little lazy while i wait for the LED kit for the monitor, ill just put up all the photos i took during the process of dissasembly which alone kind of illustrate what you need to do. Ill work on more detailed entries and tips over time.

For now though ill just mention that when prying the screen apart, the safest place to do this is on the actual threaded nut part of the top and bottom of the screen on the sides as you can see in the photos.

Continue reading Monitor disassembly photos

Success! Monitor is dissasembled

This is just a quick entry to mention that i have taken the monitor apart and extracted the CCFL tubes.
I have come to a few conclusions, i dont have much time to elaborate so ill just list them.

  • The tape holding the monitor together should just be cut along the tear line, dont bother with untaping it, the adhesive wont reapply most of the time anyway.
  • The monitor is held together with clips on the long ends and friction, plate on plate, on the short ends. the clips CAN be non-destructively unclipped and keep the monitor VERY secure.
  • The Tape is probably just to keep dust out from getting at the backlight high voltage leads, if you are using an LED replacement kit you dont even need to replace it. If you are replacing the tubes, then you can replace it wil pretty much anything as long as that compartment is airtight.
  • Inside the monitor there are plastic sheets, the main one making noise is a seperator sheet keeping the white background on the LCD and the touch sensor array apart, dont worry about it, its like 3mm thick plastic double sided taped to circuit board. Nothing important is glued to each other inside and the tubes are also very secure, the monitor will easily come apart, but DO NOT apply force to any glass/crystaline parts, ensure all levering is done on the frame and visible components only
  • Remove the plastic shell asap, its not neccesary and can easily break if mishandled. It offers no physical/useable support whatsoever.
  • Lastly,  you cant pull the monitor apart, you need to lever it apart, however while not quite apparent, you can do it entirely through the holes in the side  frame, levering off the threading that normally sticks through said holes, its the only safe way to apply even force and lift the backplate, ill provide images and diagrams later.

As of yet since i have taken so many parts off i havent been able to run the monitor yet to see if i possibly broke it.

Still, i have ordered a 540mm LED CCFL conversion kit off aliexpress, the slot to fill is 11x7mm, and no diffusion lens seems to be used, although some sheeting exists that reflects light shon into the screen, the lights just shine in the LCD glass through the side, which is very thick and seems to make up allot of the product weight.
Because of this, underpowered LED strips might leave impressions in the lighting consistency.
In all likelyhood i will probably need to use my own driver for the LEDs

Product testing

This category will be for various electronics and other products Ive bought to use or am selling, and my experience and reviews on them. Products such as tiny boost converters for example are often advertised as being far better than they really are, so this seems a good place and opportunity to share my experiences with things such as that.

At the same time its also a good place to explain items i sell and am familiar with, in a way different to my ebay store or what would be considered acceptable there. Products i have in mind for this are spark gap igniters and my various special effects pigments.

Ill be posting photos and where appropriate, video of each tested item. Also where relevant, screenshots from my oscilloscope, such as to indicate whether a boost converter or other device is producing stable output, or anything else a scope might be good to read.

 

Didn’t tell me much

I’m not going to post any photos, no point, the laptop screen lens takes light traveling up the screen and diffuses it, instead of directly at it. The light enters the side of a special acrylic lens and turns it into lines of light which the other lenses turn into solid white.
What I have learned from this however is, it’s possible that the backlight might only be 1 or 2 tubes, if it uses the same kind of lens although I doubt this.

I’ll continue with taking apart the monitor today once I have all my other work done for the day.

 

-Edit-
I forgot to mention this but, for anyone reading, this process should apply to pretty much any monitor if you want to replace the backlight with LEDs, though your experience may vary with how the system deals with a missing or disabled inverter board. In all likelyhood though itle probably just be PWM controlled. Worst case you install a knob with your own controller and use the internal 12v supply.

Practice disassembly

Practice disassembly

From time to time or more regularly ill give entries titles for the sake of the wordpress logs.

It occurred to me on an unrelated subject that I was concerning myself over the specifications of a raspberry pi to use in my car when I already had a junked netbook which besides the cracked screen worked fine and would work fine as a superior capable replacement that could be trusted with something data intensive like higher resolution dash cam use.

Continue reading Practice disassembly

Finding a way to separate the backplate

I opened the Wacom up and begun unpeeling some of the protective tape holding the screen together, I also undid some screws, I found that the 4 black screws around the monitor hold it onto the plastic frame, also, two metal rails cover the top and bottom of the screen and are glued to the underside of the plastic screen that you write on. Attempting to remove it for better access may cause serious damage to the LCD indirectly.

Continue reading Finding a way to separate the backplate

Second HD image test with in-blog editing

This time im writing within the wordpress site which i think is how its going to have to work from now on, ill see what happens when i upload a high resolution image, ideally id want it to be accessible to readers in its raw massive state, which is about 3000x2000px, at best all i can get is half that with automatic processing, plus, i have to tell word not to compress photos every single time i do this.

test

this is the second image below after editing the htaccess file to allow 5mb image files

dsc_0077

 

 

Some thoughts on the project (rev 1)

For this entry I don’t have much to say progress wise though I do have some new thoughts worth mentioning. Many people claim that a new power supply momentarily fixes the issue, this may be because the new supply has been fried like the old one was, or, the new supply is handling the HV leakage differently, so progression of the tube degeneration has eventually caught up with the new supply also.

Continue reading Some thoughts on the project (rev 1)

Entry 0

The problem observed is that the Wacom monitor fails to turn on properly. When the power button is pressed it boots up normally and displays an image for about a second, then the screen goes black and appears as though the monitor has failed, however all the other lights are still on and the computer still recognizes the monitor as being active. Shining a light on the monitor shows that an image is still there, just the backlight has failed.

Continue reading Entry 0