Heres the video links
Part 3 (working and comparison with real LED backlit display): https://mega.nz/#!jF4RSL5I!bn4SK65uxBnkQVmOyDXK4VzoAqdwQ_i6XemXYzvP9bc
im still working on editing a proper one to put on youtube.
It would be substantially edited down, annotated and include several photos i took during the recording to show how to do some of the trickier parts.
It would be substantially edited down, annotated and include several photos i took during the recording to show how to do some of the trickier parts.
Can you show a guide on how to solder the step converter thing? I have totally no idea what I’m doing.
I’ve soldered the red and white wires of the LED strip to OUT +/- but I’m not sure how to go on after that especially the IN part.
https://imgur.com/a/WuaAl (based on your picture)
Where do I get that bottom part of the wire?
Sorry for the question, I have zero knowledge on electrical.
thats the existing cables that plugged into the inverter board. i snipped the yellow and brown wire and soldered them to the board, and zip tied the plug back onto itself so it was out of the way.
should make more sense if you see the picture
make sure though you measure the voltage on the output, if you havent already, get yourself a nice cheap multimeter, best one that can read amps, look up how to read current, though you could use the output voltage to fine tune it as well, see if it gets bright enough at 9.6v.
best bet is once its connected to 24v, desolder one of the output wires and make sure you have it turned all the way down so you dont put power through it the first time way over what it can handle. i.e just incase its default setup is something like 18v. While its disconnected, put the multimeter between the LED and output, and measure current (again, look up how to read current) and try to get around 1000-1200ma to be safe, in your case dont go higher than 1400ma (or 1.4A) and pay attention to color. if you think its yellowing or something, turn it back down a smidge, when LEDs are overpowered the white light distorts and changes from say, pure white to warm-ish white. but that shouldnt happen unless your WAY over. I dont mind answering more questions if you have any.
The power source (24V) should come from the tablet itself? Or do I have to use an external power source (a bench-top power supply I suppose; not that I have access to it)?
yes, from the tablet, as i indicated before. Use the existing power cable that normally went to the inverter board i circled in the photo. the yellow wire is 24v positive, the brown is negative.
I have a Wacom Companion, the first ones released.
I have to connect a monitor to even use it.
I have the black light issue. THe unit itself works, but I have no image on the screen.
I’ve opened it and I think the cable that connects monitor to motherboard is the issue.
Any tips?
Thank you so very much!
As you stated, most of us are artist without much knowledge about this things, nevertheless in need of this fix. So I really appreciate your efforts, and greetings from Colombia!
So, let me tell you what happened to me last night, see if you have something to conclude… I had the typical problem (display showing image for half a second and then gone). But now the problem got even worse. I usually use windows, but these days I happen to be using a MacBook, so setting up the cintiq to work never really happened. I got no image whatsoever and for a time I thought it was a problem having to do with too many video cables (having to convert from dvi to hdmi to mini displayport, which is what I have)… But then something odd and unfortunate happened… I had the macbook plugged in to my samsung tv. Unplugged it and attempted to plug the laptop to the cintiq again. It worked! The display was finally showing me video and in the OS preferences I realized the system (Sierra) was still identifying the screen as Samsung, even though it was the cintiq. The resolution had to be fixed and A new check box was available (overscan). So I modified those and the screen went black. I turned the cintiq off and on and nothing happened… I suddenly noticed a burnt smell, panicked, turned everything off and unplugged everything… So… The power brick is now blinking (although when unplugged from the display is plain green), and I can’t get to turn on the cintiq at all. Not even the half second of functionality I used to get. No power light, no nothing… Now I know I’m screwed. Coming back to the defective CCFL situation, I also read that when failing, there could be a higher voltage leaking and I’m thinking this is what happened and it burnt something inside….. So my question is, any clues of what just happened? What part could have burnt? My warranty is over and I’m super far so I will have to deal with this by myself.
Thoughts? How screwed am I now? I’m sure I will have to make this fix you are sharing, but I will have to do something else. Any ideas?
Again, thank you very much for all your hard work. You are the only human doing something about this.
the high voltage wouldnt cause something to burn, though it would cause something like a regulator or transistor switch to be fried and remain kind of half opened resulting in it heating up uncontrollably.
Theres a very small chance that dust got between the backplate and HV wires resulting in the corona discharge causing dust to burn, but if it was a circuitry burning smell, the only way to know for sure is open it up and look for visual signs of burning, or, turn the monitor on while opened up and then check if any of the bigger regulators or switches are heating up, because those ones will be simple to replace. Mind you the inverter for the CCFLs will need to be pulled out for this, the monitor functions fine without the backlight plugged in, you just wont be able to see anything. its more likely also that if anything burned it was in the inverter, and if your power supply brick was flashing, that indicates a short circuit somewhere, which can be caused by a switching power converter burning out and simply remaining ON, and, theres a good many of those in the inverter in conditions which could result in death by HV.
Simply put youll be able to get a good idea of whats wrong if you can turn the monitor on with the cable going to the inverter pulled out.
Also as for your computer misidentifying the cintiq, dont worry about it, its nothing to concern yourself over, some computers just suck at retrieving that information
Hey Joe!
Thanks for the reply! I´m gladly half way there! The way you were s few months ago with an underpowered light.
See, I found a place here in Bogota willing to check out the cintiq (unique case for them). They identified the short circuit around the powering button per se, something burnt over there somehow. They fixed that and installed the LED strips, much needed anyway…. The thing is, I tried to share your story with them, how you made it work using converters to preserve brightness and such… they were such jerks, they didnt take it too well, to be told what to do, I didnt even get to explain details. Long story short, my cintiq is alive and funcioning again, but lacking brightness. The so called experts, managed to dissapoint for not listening, and valuing your research!… so yeah, Im grateful it works now but I dont wanna deal with them again, Im thinking about installing the step down converters myself, I have disassembled it to that point before just to check it out and the hardest part (replacing the lights) is already done after all… so besides having to look into how to solder cables, Im wondering about values setting….. you have mentioned some numbers but im trying to get a final veridict. Im thinking the lights I have installed are pretty much the same, as the driver looks similar and it is underpowered… So when setting the stepdown converters, if I get the Xl4015 should they turn 12V to 5V each?… or if get the LM2596, set the current at 1000-1200ma?
Is that right?
(Sorry for bombing you with questions lol …. Also, the installed driver I have right now gets powered all over the place in the circuits, those guys put one way in the middle of nowhere instead of the USB, it doest seem dodgy, do I just pull it once I get the converters?)
So thank you again for all the great help youve been! sorry this was super long again. Happy holidays mate!
So I’m thinking of using the plug that belonged to the inverter to power both step down converters (the 7 colored pin plug) .
Please help me get this straight. You mentioned it contains 2 positive and 2 negative? So that is just perfect for the configuration we are looking for!
Besides figuring out the exact values for V or ma in and out (waiting to hear final word from you), my plan then is to take out the existing led driver I have together with its spread cables, so that I just install the 2 step down converters, using said existing pin plug and already installed led strips. My final question is… Which colors or which pins here are positive and negative for the converters? How do I “dispose” of the remaining 3? This is a bit confusing, as you did mention somewhere Wacom might use different colors and I don’t wanna screw this up.
Hope to hear from you! Can never say thank you enough!
https://www.facebook.com/ronox1/photos/a.244882969279497.1073741827.236347210133073/351229431978183/?type=3&theater
Yellow positive, brown negative, but use a multimeter to be sure if you can. the rest of the wires are just various 1 way signals, like PWM, and a 5v startup signal, nothing of consequence but its probabl best you make sure they dont short out on anything.
As i mentioned before, try watching both current and voltage and use a calculator, increase until you get to either the safe value of 9W (VxA = W) or the maximum, of 9.8, per strip. either way, also ensure that the strip was installed with the thermally conductive adhesive like i recommended in the video.
1000-1200ma was my estimation but i have since discovered the actual LED specs, which means that, on a 96LED strip, the maximum power is 9.8W, theres 2 routes you can take, either get 2 stepdown converters or just 1, and power each strip in parallel or individually. use a multimeter on the driven power, and watch your output voltage and current, if you buy the XL4015 with built in current monitor and/or voltage display, then you wont need to use the multimeter, just a calculator, to watch when the wattage reaches 9.8W (or 19.6 if in parallel). to be safe, id stick at just 9W though (so 18W max)
Each strip is different but this should end up at somewhere like 9.75v at 1020ma.