All ive done so far is test the board, while its active, it has yet to be reassembled.

A problem that has been plaguing me is the fact the LED driver cant run off 24v without additional cooling, so i have been looking into options for converting the 24v rails to 12v, which has not worked out to well with what i have available, but then something occured to me, 12v is like a standard in electronics, surely something in this monitor uses 12v, and i was right, there is a 12v output in the power management board, which regulates 24v, 12v, 3.3v and 5v.

I have been running the monitor now for a while and have found no excessive heating by the additional 800ma load to the regulator, meaning it should be completely safe to use the monitors own 12v instead of converting it.

The CCFLs used to take up 2-2.5A 24V, roughly 50W, i think a slight burden in one part of the system is tolerable when the monitors power consumption is cut in half.
Also, the CCFLs inefficiency used to be a big portion of the actual heat generated by the monitor, period, so any slight impact to the fans power, which is all i can tell for sure is using 12v, should essentially work out ok.

ive found the power distribution board has short circuit protection when i accidentally shorted some stuff, also, the orange wire going to the USB interface board is the one with 12v which you will need to branch off to an LED driver. Dont hook it up though to any black wires, for some reason they are not negative. Going to the fans board, the yellow wire appears to be ground, otherwise, have the negative attach directly to the backplate somehow.

Ill just note that the power consumption of the current backlight i have is only about 10W and likely not going to be enough for a well lit room without some contrast control. if using anything better, and more reasonable, a 24v to 12v stepdown converter should be used from the inverters 24v supply.

Given the poor circulation in the monitor, since all the important things kind of just cool off on the aluminum backplate which is where all heatsinks are attached to, i recommend using a stepdown converter that would dissipate heat into the backplate as well. Some of the cheaper chinese converter boards sometimes dont work efficiently enough that they are safe without airflow. An automotive style converter would be a safe option. But an even better option would be to use a tuneable LED driver which can actually handle 24v in the first place, though, finding one which also takes PWM dimmer input might be a little difficult.

I tested the dimmer signal and it appears that currently the wacom is outputting a 180Hz square wave signal at about 2-3.5v, on my scope, checking the monitor once rebuilt, (edited here to post rebuild) the brightness was about 30-40%. Unfortunately i dont have a signal generator to experiment with here, or else i would see what works on the now removed inverter.

Later im going to experiment with reversing the tube polarities to try and re-distribute the mercury, and see if that might be a safe and viable option. When the tubes are working i dont think any high voltage will be leaking out, so, it might be a viable option for a yearly tune-up, though, the positive and negative wires appear to be different materials which ill need to look into, even though they should be running on AC, truth be told im not entirely sure about how AC can have a live and neutral when its constantly reversing its polarity. Ill find out soon i bet in my next engineering semester since ill be learning about those in an applied fundamentals class.

Anyway, below are a few pictures of my final setup as is when i close it up. Its not ideal, i intend to put in bigger LEDs and a better driver too when i can, and the way it is should be ok for the time being. I dont intend to smack the monitor around so it should be safe, those breadboarding wires are really jammed in there. At the slightest hint though its not operating correctly i will get a 24v   to 12v converter to drive the backlight, because i really dont want to have do surface mounted parts repairs.