I have finished the repair, the monitor is closed up and done, nothing is more reassuring though than putting something back together and having a bunch of screws left over.

Ive taken a few pictures during closing, its actually a little bit trickier than i thought. There are two pieces of metal that need to go onto the plastic shell before you place the actual monitor in it, but, if you never separate the shell and monitor you dont need to worry about it.

Also, i tested pen functions, its all good too, everything works.

Also, i neglected to photograph this but my final setup i closed the monitor with was with a resistor jammed more securely where i photographed it previously, then wrapped in kapton tape. The breadboard wires now plug into the other end of the cable that goes into the USB+fan board, the positive going into the orange slot and the negative going into the yellow as that appears to be grounded for some reason, DO NOT connect to black, traditional color coordination is not used in wacoms.

-edit- note that i may have not properly differentiated between color “brightness” (a setting like contrast) and backlight brightness, aka the light intensity.

When putting the monitor back together, you need to watch which screws you screw in, usually the holes will be marked with an X or something, otherwise, just overlay all parts you plan to apply so you know which screw holes need to be screwed when. photographing every step you take before removing something is a good way to keep track, so when you remove something, you know what screws were still there before you did anything.

Now, some good news, the 10W leds were actually much brighter than i thought, they are fairly acceptable for a monitor and the brightness is about the same as what i used to have anyway when i was trying to get the monitor to turn on with its faulty lights, id say these 10W LED lights are as bright as maybe 50% brightness on the CCFLs, also its very very evenly lit, and really, even knowing its not a normal backlight i cant find any faults with it. For some reason though the “brightness” option on the monitor does not seem to work quite as well as it used to (brightness as in color, not the backlight power output), i think maybe that the CCFL output was changed in conjunction with the screen brightness, it does change, but not significantly. The same goes for contrast, the changes arent as significant as they were before, but maybe its also because the brightness is a bit lower than usual.

Software brightness and contrast will need to be used to compensate for the lesser (power) brightness. For me at least, the light intensity is definitely enough. I dont take back what i said about finding a better LED backlight kit but, its no longer as worthwhile for me anymore, if ever, itle probably take me a very long time to get fed up with this limited brightness.

It cant really blast it at you anymore, but, ive made it dimmer at times for one reason or another, really its not good to be starring at a really bright monitor for ages anyway. All in all you cant really complain either way since its this or nothing.

Another thing, color is probably a hot ticket issue, given this is an art monitor and all, i cant find any fault there either, the monitor can always be fine tuned, but, it looks fine, if not better than before. I was having a slight problem with reds before. Im a bit of a fan of MLP, and all characters are colored according to a certain color palette, i found that on the wacom, a certain purple characters colores seemed way off on, but on my laptop, or other monitor, it was fine, i spent hours trying to fine tune this but it was impossible, knowing what i know now, this was because the light had likely begun to change in color, resulting in a bit of color bias. If i recall, it was because a series of striped colors together looked odd together, they were various shades of purple with a reddish pink in the middle, but this then looked like magenta instead. Also the main color of this character was a different kind of purple altogether. Though i didnt notice this unless other characters were on screen too. I dont know allot about colors, but i guess im a big enough fan to notice this.

Anyway, point being, the LEDs fixed that issue too.

So, this pretty much concludes the project, here are some parting notes.

• As you can see in the picture above, there are alternative mounting options for the wacom, in those screw holes, as far as i can tell they should be able to hold up the monitor, albeit for more of a surface experience, like, laying it flat on a table or otherwise flatter than it normally goes without using a huge amount of space, probably dont abandon the normal frame if you want it upright as a normal monitor too.
• Ill be uploading the complete gallery of these photos too in a mega.nz link or some other, which will include duplicates and a few pics i didnt put up. My webhosting is currently free only, so i shouldnt host big downloads from it or else files might disappear randomly.
• stick with your original power supply unless the new one is expressly built for a wacom. Chances are though the power supply was never broken at all if you replaced it.
• Store all your parts properly when taking the wacom apart, most, dont forget, are irreplaceable without scrapping an existing monitor.
• Most tape in the monitor dont reapply so be careful when pulling up tape on the HV wires, those things will zap anything they touch, also dont touch the wires when on for the same reason.
• dont upen up the screen unless you are prepared to remove the CCFL tubes, there is very little clearance for the tube guard and if it moves slightly you might not be able to put it back in there.
• Wacoms dont use traditional wire color coding so always test a wire before you go assuming its 5v, 12v, ground/negative, etc.
• Try not to cary the wacom by its plastic shell, its literally just a shell and might break easily.

And thats pretty much it, please be sure to leave a comment, i am happy to answer questions, and, i really hope this can help you out with any problems you might have with your wacom 24HD cintiq monitor.