Ok, a quick update.

I got the old removed CCFL tubes to work, without a signal input both the LED and the CCFLs operate at 100% power, and i have identified a potential problem, while both are overwhelmingly bright, the CCFLs are running at 24v 2.2A, while the LEDs 12v 800mA tops, which a crude comparison gives me 50W and 10W and i dont know how the output efficiency differs between the two. I cant really safely do a side by side comparison of the outputs, especially since i dont want the CCFLs on the same circuit and potentially compromising it. Both are bright enough that its not really worthwhile to really test which is actually brighter, taking that aforementioned risk.

Currently im in the process of building the LEDs into the special reflector guards for the tubes, i want to keep the reflective sheet in tact so most likely  i think i will be just 3D printing something which the LEDs can slide into, which fits in the slot, and can accomodate a pin of sorts that goes through the holes which previously fastened the silicone into  the guard also. It doesnt look like the LEDs themselves will ever get hot enough that this will pose any threat to printed holders integrity. But, before i do that i might just see what happens if i try hotgluing the LEDs in there, as that would be much quicker, and doesnt really do any harm. in the attempt, especially if i use the non-tacky glue which is more suited as filler material than as a glue since it peels off everything.

One important thing to take from this is, with LED kits, you dont need to have a compatible brightness signal, just bridge the brightness and power in with a 5-20kohm resistor, the higher the better (actually mohm may work too since just touching 12v with one hand and the wire going to the brighness pin is enough across your skin), and it will automatically sit at 100% brightness, and as is the case with most LED kits, often they are a total let down, i highly recommend that you just buy a nice cheap high powered dense packed LED bar or thick powerful backlight LED strip on its own, and just do the brightness control on your own, or with a standalone controller/regulator which takes PWM. The garbage they pair together is, together, not worth it when you have the option of something heavy duty instead for a few bucks more.