Ill have to confirm it by checking the component specs, listing description and then actually running it at 24v to see if it can directly run off 24v instead of the usual 12v, make sure the driver isnt overheating even though its in-spec.

If it works fine, i have a few challenges ahead of me; first, the fragile and tiny LED strip needs to be properly mounted in the reflector shield/case for the light tubes. In all likelyhood i can probably pot it and either end and run a little wire through to keep it fixed, plus glue the strip to the back of the reflector with thermal paste.

Second, the supplied wires are standard, but not for 12v, i used to buy allot of wires and connectors for general use and what i have here is the standard size, its the kind you find on lithium batteries for RC stuff, the lighter ones anyway, or at very least, for the seperate charging cable (some have a lead going out to individual cells for charging but two heavy duty connectors for the series output)

Had the monitor been 12v and not 24v i think these connectors would have been used, its all pretty standard, ive dealt with the exact same incompatibility before.

Third, i need to test the LEDs on 24v if they are indeed designed to operate on 24v, last i checked it should be ok up to 30v, but, i need to be sure, so ill run it a while and see how it handles heat.

I find it rather suspicious though that the LED strips have high voltage connectors on them, which are identical to the ones that the tubes use to plug into the inverter. I can bet that many have accidentally just plugged them in directly and burned them out, and probably wrecked the monitor too.

For reasons unknown, the red and black wires are  not positive and negative respectively, they are the reverse, and this doesnt seem to be a one off mistake, the listing photo shows the same thing, so dont mess them up.

Ill do more testing but for now it looks like the LEDs are about 9.6v and the driver requires 2 inputs besides power, a signal and a pwm input, but it will run fine without the PWM, as far as i can tell, it will be at maximum power unless told otherwise which is good if the monitor is unable to sync up with the driver. For testing purposes, at 12v and 24v a 5kohm resistor between the power and power signal (ENA) should suffice, i think normally that pin is meant to be 5v. and 5kohm should keep the current below about 10ma, a safe signal strength. I dont think though it really needs much at all given how unresponsive it is to having the signal broken.

I am now going to go and compare the inverter tubes brightness with the new LEDs, to find out if i should tune the power up at all, because pulling the monitor apart is a hassle and honestly i might actually just decide to risk it and turn up the juice without testing if the LEDs can handle the additional heat dissipation.

-edit-

After a little bit of testing i have found that the GYD-9E driver overheats at 24v, i dont think it is stable beyond 12v.
Also the driver generally consumed about 700-800mA at all times no matter what the input voltage is, with no change to the output. I will be using a regulator with an adequate heatsink to supply the LED driver. While i think its good enough for these LED strips, i dont think it can be trusted above 15v.